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Around the World of Sailing
7 March 2001
This Weeks Main Stories:
Racing News: Club Med Wins The Race
Available on line at: http://www.torresen.com/atwos/2001/0307_ms.htm
This Saturday in the port of Marseilles France located on the
Mediterranean Sea Club Med crossed the finish line. By doing so they
took victory in The Race.
Their official time was 62 days 6 hours 56 minutes and 33 seconds.
Their average speed 18.3 knots.
The second boat to finish was sister ship Innovation Explorer. This
Race class cat was co-skippered by Loick Peyron and Skip Novak. They
sailed the course in 64 days 22 hours 32 minutes and 38 seconds.
3rd place Team Adventure is off Brazil. They have 5100 miles to sail
before the finishing gun.
Warta Polpharma has also doubled Cape Horn and is heading north. They
are off Argentina with 6000 miles to sail.
Finally Team Legato is still in the Southern Ocean nearing Cape Horn.
They have over 6000 miles to sail.
Links:
Team Adventure doubles the Horn Club Med Fact Sheet
http://www.torresen.com/therace/fact.htm
Statistics
http://www.now.com/feature.now?fid=1345475&cid=997704
Damage to Club Med
http://sport.telegraph.co.uk/sport/main.jhtml?xml=/sport/2001/03/05/soyots06.xml
Grant Dalton Interview
http://www.madforsailing.com/SAIL/Articles.nsf/6a4c3cf88fafc24080 2568e60062a1f7/df8ef228dbb7042f80256a05007250cc?OpenDocument
heme Article: Applying VC 17 Bottom Pain Available on line at:
http://www.torresen.com/atwos/2001/0307_ms.htm
This month's theme series topic is commissioning. You'll read a series
of 4 articles on tasks that need to be done before you splash for the
season 2001. We begin the series with an article on bottom painting
written by Pete Mathews who is our Interlux rep. Pete will be at our
Spring Thaw on 17 March.
APPLYING VC-17
Submitted by Pete Matthews - Great Lakes Interlux Representative
VC-17 is one of the easiest antifouling paints to apply, and to
maintain. But like any other antifouling system, there are some things
that have to be done both at the initial application and as part of an
annual maintenance program.
There are three basic application situations that will be encountered. I'll take them one at a time.
First is the new application.
This means applying VC-17 to a new boat or a boat that has recently
had a different antifouling system on it that has been removed.
Essentially a clean fiberglass hull. If it's a new hull, it must be
dewaxed completely to remove any residual mold release wax. This
should be done with the Interlux 202 Solvent Wash. We recommend using
a two-rag system. One to put the solvent on the hull, another to wipe
it clean. Change both rags frequently and remember not to dip the
application rag back into the solvent container, thereby contaminating
it. When you're done with the entire hull, take a hose or container
of water and wet down portions of the hull. If the water beads up,
there's still wax on the hull and the process must be repeated.
Failure to remove the wax can prevent the paint adhering to the hull.
Also please note, this must be done before sanding the hull so as not
to imbed the wax in the gelcoat during the sanding process. When you
are sure you've removed all the wax from the hull, the next step is
to sand the entire surface to be painted with VC-17. This is a must.
You must abrade the hull to provide a profile for the paint to stick
to. Failure to do so can result in the paint detaching from the hull.
The hull should be sanded with 180 grit sandpaper, 220 at the finest.
After sanding wipe the hull down with 202 Solvent Wash again to remove
sanding residue. Some boat manufacturers aren't in favor of sanding
hulls because they feel this may increase the likelihood of osmotic
blistering. I know of no evidence to support this, but it is the
manufacturers warranty. In this case there has been some success
reported using a coarse Scotch Brite Pad to scrub the hull. This can
be done with the 202 Solvent wash. You must be sure to leave a
visible scratch in the gelcoat. I'd have to say that I feel this
would provide minimal adhesion at best and I can't recommend the
system even though I know it's done. After cleaning and abrading
the surface, you're ready to apply the paint. Pick a day that isn't
raining, and is above 50 degrees F. You'll notice that under the hat
on the VC-17 can there is a bag of copper. This must be mixed into
the paint. Please be careful doing this as the copper is very fine
and will fly around. (Perhaps a good time for a paper sanding mask)
This is what provides the antifouling. You'll notice the can is short
filled to allow you to add the copper and stir it in without spilling.
This does NOT mean that the can should be filled with a solvent. This
is not the case. Only in rare cases should any antifouling paint be
thinned and in the case of VC-17, almost never. The paint is best
applied with a roller or by spray, IF the yard you're in allows
spraying. Please check with the yard manager about this. If you can
and do choose to spray, contact your Interlux representative for
details. If you're going to roll, any solvent resistant foam or short
nap roller cover will work. The recommended system is to start from
the bottom of the hull or keel, and roll upwards. Do not over roll or
attempt to "smooth" the paint out. It's self-leveling and will do that
itself. Just make one pass up to the waterline tape then start over
at the bottom. Keep the roller well filled with paint, but not to the
point that it runs off onto the ground, or your arm. A word of caution,
This paint dries very quickly. Do not pour the entire can into the
tray. It will evaporate. Poor in just enough to fill the roller, then
add more to the tray when you need to refill the roller. Work your way
around the boat working back to the place you started. During an
initial application, ALWAYS apply two coats. The second coat can be
applied after the first coat has dried, about a half an hour under
most conditions. Remove the tape and the boat can be launched about
a half-hour after painting.
Second application type - you already have VC-17 on the boat.
Reapplication is one of the joys of this product. Assuming the boat
was pressure washed and stored relatively clean, all that is required
is to wipe the hull down with a damp rag to remove any dust or
particles that may be on the hull. Inspect the bottom to insure
there are no abrasions or flaking spots. If there are, these can
and should be touched up lightly with 180 grit on a sanding pad.
Just feather in the affected area, wipe to remove any dust and
repaint. There is no need to sand the entire hull, in fact, it's
not recommended. If you do, there is a danger of sanding through,
which would require applying two coats again. Applying the paint is
the same as above described procedure and once again, the boat can
be launched in about one half-hour. That's all there is to it!
The third instance.
Applying VC-17 over an epoxy barrier coat. It is not true, by the way,
that VC-17 can only be applied over VC Tar. While it certainly can be,
it goes on over Interprotect Epoxy barrier coats just as well. In this
case apply the barrier coat according to the instructions. After
applying the last coat of tar or epoxy, follow the instruction for
applying the first coat of antifouling without sanding (called "hot"
or "wet on wet" coating) in the case of VC Tar or Interprotect
2000E/2001E. In the case of Interprotect 3000/3001, you must let the
epoxy harden and sand with 180 just as though it were a new hull.
Please be sure you're reading the correct times for applying
antifouling paints (not another coat of epoxy, they're different).
The second coat of VC-17 can be applied when the first has dried,
again, about a half an hour. Words of caution here, If you have just
applied a barrier coat, please do not launch the boat in a half-hour.
Please allow the epoxy to cure for as long as possible before
launching. (A week perhaps.) This is especially important in the
case of VC Tar as this product takes a long time to cure and lifting
the boat too soon can cause the straps to distort the tar at lifting
points. Maintenance after this is just the same as described above.
And that's all there is to it. While it doesn't achieve the boating
Nirvana we all look for, the bottom that never has to be worked on,
it does come about as close as chemistry will allow us in this day
and age.
For any questions, Contact Torresen Marine, your local Interlux rep,
or call the help line at 1-800 INTRLUX.
Racing News: 2001 Acura SORC Regatta
Available on line at: http://www.torresen.com/atwos/2001/0307_ms.htm
Highlights of the racing held off Miami Florida included a showdown
of world champions in the Farr 40 class. Going into the last race
1999 World Champion Samba Pa Ti led. However, 1998 World Champion
Barking Mad was close enough the outcome was still in doubt. What
it came down to was this: should Barking Mad win, then Samba Pa Ti
had to finish at least 6th.
Barking Mad led the final race wire to wire. Samba Pa Ti moved around
in the order sinking as low as 16th. However, by the mid point of the
race Samba has its 6th place and held it to win by .5 points.
Current world champion Southern Star finished 3rd while Pegasus, which
will sail under the US flag in the Admirals cup, was 7th.
Links:
Official SORC Site
http://www.acurasorc.com/
Results Page
http://www.acurasorc.com/results.htm
Star Class Bacardi Cup
Available on line at: http://www.torresen.com/atwos/2001/0307_ms.htm
The 74th annual Bacardi Cup for Olympic Star class keelboats is
currently being sailed off Miami. Only 1 race has been sailed. The
last two days have seen heavy weather keep the fleet ashore.
The fleet is 65 boats strong, populated by the world class sailors
the Star class attracts. The first race was won by current Olympic
Gold Medallists and World Sailors of the Year Mark Reynolds and Magnus
Liljerdahl. Paul Cayard who also has previously won the Rolex
Yachtsman of the year was 3rd. Multiple Olympic medallist Torben
Grael was 4th. Other notables include Rod Davis and Andy Lovell.
This morning there is a small craft warning for the Miami area.
However, winds are forecast to taper into the 10-15 knots range
meaning racing should eventually take place.
Links: Star Class web site
http://www.starclass.org/